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I made this quick diy back in 08' on a nether forum and decided I would post it here as well. To start out with this is just a rough explanation of how to shave your hatch. *I am not responsible for any damages or mishaps you may do to your car. To start out with you will need some supplies.
*MKV gas door actuator Part # 1K6-810-773 *A coat hanger (Metal) *Some screws and nylon spacers. *Small piece of sheet metal (Enough to fill the handle hole) *Some other body working supplies *Getting the handle out: In order to get the handle out, you must remove the interior pieces from the hatch. After that is done there is 3 torx screws holding the handle on.
Now this is where the fun comes in; in order to get the handle out you must wiggle, twist and turn it. Truthfully it took me about half an hour before I just broke it out. There is a clip to pull so you don't mess anything up when removing the handle to separate the lock mechanism. The back of the hatch should now look like this: This is what my handle looked like after i got it out, it was pretty much corroded to hell: Now the next step is the actuator.
You may look at the one that came off of your hatch and think that its the same as the MKV one and will work, Wrong. The MKIV one when actuated stays retracted, the MKV one springs back to the extended position. Here is the MKV gas door popper, it looks identical to the one from your hatch: And a video of the difference, you will realize when you do it why the MKIV one wont work. Now to mount it there isn't really a good explanation or way to do it, it will mainly take some ingenuity on your part to make it work. What i did was figured out where it needed to be, went down to the hardware store and got 2 screws that fit the actuator but where a bit longer than the ones that came with it, and got some 1' nylon spacers. Looking at the pictures makes it pretty clear of how i did it, so i wont go into detail: Now we need to make a connection from the actuator to the latch arm. To do this i took a metal coat hanger, took a few rough measurements and bent it into this shape: After you get it to fit, plug the actuator in and try it out.
It may take some adjustment for the hanger to get it to work properly. Now, on to the body work.
What you will have to do is take and cut out a piece of sheet metal that will fit inside the hole where the handle was. For the rest your on your own. You can chose to either weld or glue the piece in. I personally am going to take some 8115 panel adhesive and glue it in. This way the metal of the hatch around the handle is less acceptable to warping due to the heat. And i leave you will a video walk though.
Progress Pics Final product And no rear wiper Its been 2 years now and its still working strong. [IMG][IMG]Q&A: Q:What did you use to actually pop the hatch out?
After the actuater opens the latch, what pushes the whole hatch out? A: when the latch is pulled it pops the hatch open enough to get to get your fingers in to open it. To give it a bit more pop you could add a spring loaded plunger. If you watch the 2nd video clip you should be able to see it happen. To test this lightly pull on your door handle. You should notice it has a natural pop to it. Q: Is Mk5 actuator is a direct plug-in?
And it works with the keyfob the car comes with? A: The MKV actuator is a direct plug in fit and works with the keyfob. Modified by inertpyro at 5:35 PM 3-10-2010. Quote, originally posted by inertpyro » Are you talking about the side shot? That was taken with the stock NA bumper which sticks out farther. The hatch blend is designed to match a Euro bumper which doesn't stick out as far. So the R-Line matches better to it.
No, i figured out what your saying and with the R32 bumper on it looks better. But i mean where ti actually starts. In the pic straight on looking at the back it looks to start up a bit high compared to where the bumper and the 'natural line' is across the back.does that make sense? Quote, originally posted by Mr.Tan » no, i figured out what your saying and with the R32 bumper on it looks better. But i mean where ti actually starts. In the pic straight on looking at the back it looks to start up a bit high compared to where the bumper and the 'natural line' is across the back.does that make sense? Ok i get what you mean.
Gpib 82335 Drivers there. Well it was done 2 years ago so whats done is done. I by no means am a body work expert. Ive only learned though trial and error with a bit of guidance from others.
My car was rear ended last year buy a mini van and does need to be redone but ive been to busy with my MKII project. When i get to it i will keep that in mind. [IMG][IMG]Modified by inertpyro at 12:29 PM 3-10-2010. Quote, originally posted by inertpyro » Ok i get what you mean.
Well it was done 2 years ago so whats done is done. I by no means am a body work expert. Ive only learned though trial and error with a bit of guidance from others. My car was rear ended last year buy a mini van and does need to be redone but ive been to busy with my MKII project. When i get to it i will keep that in mind. [IMG][IMG]Modified by inertpyro at 12:29 PM 3-10-2010 no doubt, its not that it looks bad i just notice stuff like that haha.
Did a way better job then i ever could have for sure [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]. Quote, originally posted by.:V.R.6.6.6.
» What did you use to actually pop the hatch out? After the actuater opens the latch, what pushes the whole hatch out? When the latch is pulled it pops the hatch open enough to get to get your fingers in to open it. To give it a bit more pop you could add a spring loaded plunger.
If you watch the 2nd video clip you should be able to see it happen. To test this lightly pull on your door handle. You should notice it has a natural pop to it.
Where Is My Water Apk Full Free Download. Modified by inertpyro at 2:02 PM 3-10-2010. Quote, originally posted by oneskll » Will the 8115 panel adhesive ever break, crack, or chip? Im just wondering whats the difference between this and welding and why wouldn't everyone just be using this as opposed to welding the hatch up? Anyway any more information about the adhesive and the process on actually using it would be amazing!
Hatch looks great by the way! [IMG]Its what they are using to put cars together instead of spot welding now.
So yes it is super strong. I got some on my garage floor and i had to chip it off with a chisel and it took concrete off with it. I think it about $40 a tube.
The main thing is the gun i have to squeeze it out with is like $150. Main reason I used this instead of welding is no chance of warping. And well my hatch blend was fiberglass so I need to use it anyways. Picture of gun I also used this stuff to attach my boser I think 3 years ago, still with no problems Modified by inertpyro at 10:18 PM 3-10-2010. 8115 can show ghost lines in between 2 pieces of metal. Thats why i stopped using it on anything other then plastic parts.
Ive never had any issues with it for shaving plastic, but always had ghost lines show up on hood notches and whatnot after the car sat out in the sun. The gap between the main panel and the filler panel can show because of expansion. I swear by the stuff, but i wont use it for anything like this because of my past experiences. If you do use it i would let the part sit out in the sun for a couple days before top coating with filler, then again while its in primer so hopefully it all shrinks up and you wont have any issues down the road Modified by spitfire481 at 11:54 PM 3-10-2010. Quote, originally posted by oneskll » thanks for the info! So how much of a tube did you use for your hatch?
Also does it pretty much bond everything to everything, like plastic to metal or just metal to metal. And where do you purchase it? I've always wanted to shave my hatch, bumpers, and doors and i may just use this stuff instead of welding It will bond any thing you stick to it.
I don't think I even used an entire tube for my hatch. It can be picked up at most auto part stores. I get mine from car quest so I know they have it for sure. Also don't go to thick on it.
This stuff shrinks up A LOT and could cause issues. Just read the directions and you should be fine.
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